Spring is here! It’s time for prom dresses, bridal gowns, bridesmaid dresses and more. the most common tailoring need for formal (or casual) dresses is bust alterations.
When shopping for the dress keep in mind that it’s usually best to have a bust too large taken in. When you can’t find a perfect ti, go with the bigger size. A dress too tight in the bust can’t always be fixed, but in some cases it is the only option and we can get creative.
Usually the dress needs taken in at the bust. It depends on the fit, but most often this can be done by taking in the side seams. Sometimes it needs a different adjustment and a dart can be created or a center front seam taken in to reshape the curve of the bust. Sometime bra cups can be added to fix the fit or a combination of tailoring and cups.
Many of us are not the same on each side and some have had surgery. Bust alterations can make unevenness unapparent, having both sides custom fit wil give an even visual effect.
What if it is too tight through the buts? If it still zips it’s likely there’s enough fabric in the side seam to let it out enough to fit. Sometimes chiffon dresses don’t have extra fabric at the seam. If there is not enough fabric in the seam allowances or if the dress doesn’t zip and needs more fabric we can get creative.
Usually the best option is to put gussets in the side seams under the arms, making them quite invisible. Gussets are pieces of fabric added to make the dress fit. The trick is finding matching fabric. If the dress is also too long we can use fabric cut off from shortening the dress. Otherwise we match it as best as possible. You might be able to have the dress shop order fabric from the manufacturer, but they can’t always do this and it’s expensive.
Depending on how it fits and the design of the dress, it might be converted into a lace up corset back style. Again we need to have a matching fabric or a coordinating fabric. This is more expensive to do then gussets. A corset back will clearly be visible across the center back of the dress, so it’s usually not a good option for a bridesmaid who is supposed to look like the others.
Good luck busting out!